Veliz and his culinary compatriots are tired of the back burner. Don't I deserve a new kind of food? A new tradition?" He pauses before offering a sharp rhetorical question: "Why can there be so many types of bagels but I can't make a jerk chicken tamale without offending people?" I'm a new kind of Mexican, a new kind of Latino. I'm the first business owner in my family. I'm the first English speaker in my family. But also you can't control change unless you join it," says Veliz, adding: "I'm the first American in my family.
You can't stop change, especially in New York. New York is a place that welcomes new ideas and new people. "I called it City Tamale because it's a taste of what it means to live here. Or the hot Cheetos-flavored tamales of Israel Veliz, the 29-year-old founder of City Tamale.
Or Jason Alicea's Empanology and its chopped cheese or red velvet varieties of empanadas. Of the night market's 36 food vendors, 21 are Bronx-based, including Blenlly Mena's Next Stop Vegan and its asopao (a thick Puerto Rican rice soup), chimichurri, and BBQ jackfruit offerings. The Salt Oysters On The Half Shell Are Actually Saving New York's Eroding Harbor And its food revival is rewriting the gentrification playbook - the one issued for years by largely white interloping hipsters in Brooklyn to all corners of the world - by importing a novel tactic from Los Angeles: gentefication (from gente, the Spanish word for people), in which a neighborhood's artisanal renaissance goes beyond being locally inspired or sourced toward something much more radical and resonant: locally controlled. And at the new Bronx Night Market, a mantia (Albanian flaky veal dumpling) is served proudly alongside a jibarito (a Puerto Rican sandwich between two slices of fried plantains). Famous Nobodys, a South Bronx streetwear brand, annexed a pizzeria on its block, offering huge $2 shots that blend blue curaçao, gin, rum, tequila, triple sec and Sprite. Tim Washington, a chef nicknamed "The Cake Pusher" because he weighs his ingredients on digital scales used by drug dealers, bakes his sumptuous confections a block away from Yankee Stadium. When Malcolm Livingston II, the pastry chef at Denmark's Noma, a four-time winner as the world's best restaurant, decided to move on to new things last year, he returned to his native Bronx, N.Y., and the Ghetto Gastro collective, a self-described " black power kitchen." And he is not alone. The Ghetto Gastro collective is a self-described "black power kitchen" in The Bronx.
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